75 Mile Beach, Maheno Wreck and Champagne Pools

September 12th, 2016

To get from Kingfisher Bay to the NE corner of the island is about 150km kilometers round trip. Most of it along 75 mile beach where the speed limit is up to 80km/hr (although we rarely passed 60, and usually cruised between 40 – 50km/hr). After 20km and 45 minutes of sand tracks to traverse the narrow island we once again set out northward along the easterly exposed beach to Maheno Wreck.

Here’s our track across the center of the island to 75 mile beach and up to Champagne Pools.

Beach driving: A few tips we learned about beach driving. Soft sand is well…soft, and makes driving and steering much more difficult. Significantly smoother and faster driving is on the hardpack that is washed flat by the tide, and thus we are all crowding one side of the “highway”. Needless to say passing each other can be a bit uncomfortable the first few times. It seems from far off that in fact you are driving right at each other and will without doubt collide, but once closer up realize as you pass that there’s an entire 4 lanes of space that separate you. It’s a bit unnerving until you just get used to it. In tight situations people use their blinkers to indicate that they will in fact stay on their side of the road if you stay on yours.

As per usual road rules, pedestrians (and fishers in this case) have right of way, but so do the flocks of birds that rest on this shoreline as they migrate. And if you time it badly and drive through the surf you spray your truck with saltwater (think rust) and potentially drown your vehicle in the soft sand and waves. Outside of that it’s common sense, watching out for rises and dips in the sand and taking caution crossing creeks as they cause deep divots in the sand and can really throw your truck. Eli creek at high tide is a big cautionary point to traverse as the waves coming in cause a backwash of water coming out of the creek, raising the depth of the water significantly. Crossing it when the tide is rolling out is the best plan of action, but even then expect your bonnet to get covered in a wave of water as you drive through.

Fishermen line the north end of the beach looking for tailor fish spawning in the waves

Maheno Wreck prompted our first stop off. SS Maheno, an ocean liner in service from 1905 until it’s early demise in 1935 from a cyclone, is now rusting away as it settles into the sands that wash over it. It’s historical uses include being converted into a hospital ship during WWI. It’s unfortuate that it became stranded due to the random fact that it had no propellers at the time and was being towed when the cyclone hit. The towline broke and SS Maheno washed ashore with its 8 passengers. It’s now beautifully decaying for the rest of us to watch.

The bow of the rusting ship, you can still see some wood that is rotting away.

The Pinnacles were a quick stop and a short walk off the beach, demonstrating how metals (wiki says hematite, the sign said iron) in the clay have infused layered sands from 700,000 years ago that are slowly eroding away. Apparently the conglomerite of clay and sand creates a concrete like rock that doesn’t blow away like sand dunes and sandblows. Reminds me of Utah.

This is Duma, B’s cheetah who is traveling the world with us, backdrop The Pinnacles

We arrived Champagne Pools just after noon and high tide being about 5 hours away started making us nervous. We had at least an hour of sand driving back, and not knowing how much time we would be wading through soft sand we decided leaving by 1pm would be a wise idea. The conservative rule is to be done driving 2 hours before high tide. Still the drive was worth it! A short boardwalk hike down to these 2 lovely pools, warmed by the rocks and sun. Each pool was full of a school of fish, making it even more magical.

Champagne pools, as the tide comes in it washes over the rock barriers

Spectacular views from the boardwalk hike down to the pools

The view to the North of Champagne Pools

On our drive back down the beach we had a chance to glimpse one of the many airplanes on the beach take off on one of their designated runways. This is definitely a highly popular tourist destination and it’s only early spring yet!

Beached airplane getting ready for takeoff

Camping along the beach is well marked and a prolific activity. The camps set up are huge with every amenity including portable toilets and showers, sun shelters and large tents. Their backdrop of dunes and hills of colored sand makes this a spectacular spot to pitch a tent. I’m honestly a bit jealous, though we are no way equipped to do anything close to this. A scenic and uneventful drive back landed us in Kingfisher after an epic day of driving and sightseeing.

Just one small campsite out of many along this idyllic coastline

Fraser Island

September 10th – 11th

Fraser Island is one of the main reasons we decided to buy the Nissan Patrol 4wd vehicle for our tour down the East Coast of Australia. The roo and slide bars, suspension and high clearance coverage allows us access to this 120km long heritage-listed island. 100’s of kilometers of sand tracks give access to gorgeous lakes and beaches, driving through microclimates of flora such as eucalyptus and palm forests.

Our entry into 4wd began a couple of years ago when Cameron introduced me to a youtube show he saw called Expedition Overland. If it wasn’t for these amazing documentaries of young men and women setting out to explore the inland wilderness of Canada and Alaska in their 4x4s we wouldn’t be here today. As avid boaters in the past, we had to rethink how to explore the inland NW when we moved to Spokane. Within 6 months we had found our truck (Landcruiser 100 series), flew to LA and drove back to Spokane through California and Utah, stopping off in Moab for an amazing adventure in the “Disneyland” of 4×4 driving. It’s an awe inspiring way to see land, geocache, camp and hike your way through the country. And it opened up a whole new world of travel for our family.

And here we are again, so soon after selling “Dora”, with our Patrol, “Beastly”, exploring an entirely new climate and ecosystem halfway around the world.

To get to Fraser requires a reservation on a barge, where you expertly back your truck up the ramp (quietly freak out inside while you do it) and exit onto the jetty on the other side. Ideally you enter the island with your tank and subtank full of diesel, and you get said diesel at the very last stop in River Heads before setting out. OR like us and many before us, you get to River Heads only to realize this small town has NO said petrol station, and looking at your watch you realize it’s too late to turn back now and fill your tank inland. Such mistakes as these can cost you $50 – $100 AUD, which it did for us when we filled up on the island.

There are a number of ways to stay on Fraser. Camping in designated areas requires a permit and all such gear you need. Otherwise a few resorts are located on the island, which we booked through AirBnB for the week (way cheaper than booking directly through the resort). Benefits of the resort include access to the pool and other amenities, restaurants and a chance to join the various kid activities scheduled. First night in Bella joined the Eco Rangers campfire night where they took her to dinner and then roasted marshmallows around a campfire, giving me n Cam a chance to have dinner alone!

We used HEMA maps on the iPad to navigate our way around Fraser using GPS rather than using a standard paper map. Here is our first day’s journey (in red), about 65 km. We left around 11am and got back just before 5, stopping at a few fun spots and getting to know the terrain and forests along the way.

Lake McKenzie was our first stop, as it was nearby and gave us a chance to stop for lunch and some outdoor time. The start of our venture involved pulling over for large tour buses bareling up bumpy sandy tracks wide enough for 1 vehicle at a time. It soon flattened out to a nice sandy track with some pits, roots and curves that definitely require a lifted 4×4 to traverse. After just short of an hour and 15km later we arrived at this pristine rain filled lake.

Lake McKenzie is pretty unique. Outside the white sands sitting atop this basalt island this lake is filled solely by rainwater. Detritus of leaves and sticks and other debris slowly setting to the bottom have decomposed into a hardpan bottom sealing in the water to fill this cool space. A great place to paddleboard or kayak or just swim and wade around, I highly recommend this spot for a long afternoon lounge fest. We didn’t stay long and will be back for an afternoon later this week.

From here we took the long way around the lake to the small town of Eurong, passing along the way Central Station, a local inland camping spot and boardwalk hike through a palm treed forest. We didn’t stop but will be back to do this hike! Eurong has a couple small resorts to stay at, and access to 75 mile beach. Aptly named as it is miles and miles of driveable sand beach. We headed up about 5km to another entry into the forest to head home for the day.

We decided on one of the designated scenic route back, called Central Lake Scenic Drive with lookouts to a giant sandblow and Lake Wabby. Although a slightly bumpy ride, and a small hill to clamber up to the first lookout, it was again fairly easy terrain in 4wd. Made it back just before dusk and already planning for day 2!

Cruising in the Whitsunday Islands Part 1

A 2 week boat cruise in the Whitsunday islands was our big goal for Northeastern Australia. Visiting the great barrier reef has been something I’ve wanted to do since I first donned a snorkel mask on vacation in Hawaii.

We set out, optimism high, sun shining, with our course set for Sawmill Bay in Cid Harbour. Good protection from the wind and swells of the southeasterly winds, a sand beach, good clay anchoring. Great! And then we crossed the PASSAGE BETWEEN. It was bigger swells and stronger winds than anything we have ever experienced in the Puget Sound or Gulf Islands. Our 9 meter catamaran powered through them with a strong but perceptible shudder. What did we get ourselves into? This must be a bad day I thought. And ensuing rain and rainbow ended our first day in Cid Harbour after a quick jaunt to the beach.

I didn’t know this was the last day of sun for 5 days

The next two nights weren’t anything more than “hunkering down” in Hamilton Island Marina and Resort to find protection from the howling storm that rolled through. Wind 20-30 knots with gusts up to 40 left us feeling very grateful we were in safe moorage. But that’s about where it ends. I’ve read other people’s blogs about their “Hamo” experiences as visiting boaters and their polite claims of “this just isn’t my thing” is putting it lightly.

Hamilton island is a full on resort island. Everything is designed for maximum revenue gain and consumerism. Kids stay and eat for free if lodged on the island, free shuttle buses circuit the island, and the pools are free to anyone on the island. But that’s about where it ends. Meals and groceries are expensive, moorage is $115 a night, cocktails are $15-$20 (let alone the actual costs of a meal). There are all sorts of tourist attractions to draw more $$ out of your wallet. Cruises, snorkeling trips, ATVs, side by sides, dinghy rentals, jet ski rentals, etc.

Checking out the usually popular beach on “Hamo”

One of 2 gorgeous and large swimming pools.

But it’s not just the tourist trap feel that gave me the willies, it’s the sheer attitude of consumerism, excess and wealth that is so generously portrayed. I felt like I was in Jurassic Park, “no expense was spared”. Perfectly manicured everything. Women powdering their noses on the cockpits of their mega yachts, everyone dressed in high fashion (meanwhile I’m in chacos with my unwashed windblown hair and practical travel clothing), driving around in their golf carts and looking pleased as punch. Barf. I kept waiting for the dinosaurs to come crashing through, crushing the fakeness with glorious swipes of their tails.

The Hotel’s front entryway ping-pong table

Golf carts abound this island as a means of transportation. It’s either that, walk or take the free shuttle.

Not my cup of tea. We waited out our obligatory 2 nights, wandered around a bit, and planned our escape. No offense, Hamo, you’re just not my type.

Addendum to Hamo Experience:

One cool thing did happen. Cameron set Bells up with a 30 minute ATV learn and ride session. I was skeptical this would go well, but went reluctantly to watch my kiddo put on her full face helmet and gloves and give it a shot. As I suspected, she wouldn’t get on the thing, silently cried and buried her helmet head into my armpit. Our attitude is “If you don’t want to you don’t have to, but you have to watch.” She silently stood there and watched for 20 minutes, even though the instructor offered to drive her around. Then she set her mind, got on that bike, figured out the gas and break and took off! She drove full speed ahead around the track 3 times! I was in pure shock.

Determined, she’s off!

B is silently crying

Very proudly holding her certificate

Her determination in the face of severe discomfort and fear is absolutely inspirational! Cheers to B!

Cairns to Airlie Beach and the Great Barrier Reef

After a week in Sydney, getting Cameron’s knee injury assessed, seeing a physiotherapist and resting, we decided recovery was going as well as could be hoped. Our flight to Cairns was booked, so let’s just do it. Grab that cane and hobble on. What else is there to do? Sit around in the rain and mope? Did that for three days (worth it). Queensland is where we really wanted to be, not Sydney in wintertime. We packed our bags and made the flight.

Landed in Cairns on a beautiful Saturday afternoon, went to pick up our car rental reservation, only to discover we had put in the wrong reservation dates. That was a $70 mistake. Oh well. Just do it. And we drove away (nervously) on the left hand side of the road. Totally counterintuitive doesn’t even cut it! But curiously easier than I was expectin. A week of watching Uber drivers in Sydney really helped switch over my brain to this new way of driving, but I still cannot stop turning on the windshield wipers every time I reach for the turn signal.

The goals in Cairns: Simple (that’s sarcasm) Buy a truck, install a drawer and fridge into the trunk, provision for a 2 week boat charter cruise in the Whitsunday Islands, and 6 days to accomplish this. No biggie (also sarcasm). A little exploring around town was also a must.

In the center of town we discovered the Night Market, an evening tourist trap with a few cool shops. Also a fun place to shop for foods and provisions was Rusty’s Market.

Ate amazing ramen.

Obligatory playground run.

Sit and stare at ocean for a while.

The important things in life!
The Lagoon, a saltwater outdoor open pool along the Esplanade Boardwalk facing the ocean, is the alternative to the ocean where the crocs and stingers live. Don’t go there, so Cairns provides a lovely alternative. Bella enjoyed a few hours practicing her swimming and sand maneuvering.

I really wanted to do one touristy thing with Bella, seeing as Cam works all weekdays, so we picked Kuranda Village. Took a long and meandering 2 hour train ride up.

The village was super touristy, not very interesting. Bells and I took a walk around the perimeter in an attempt to find a geochache and place a bug in the container, only to find we would have to trudge up a short and muddy slope through the “jungle” that is tropical forest to reach it.

We chickened out! The spiders here are HUGE! No joke.

The gondola “Sky Train” was the best part, I love being up high, seeing the birds flocking from tree to tree in the tropical canopy, waterfalls and rivers.

And then it all became super serious and real when we bought a truck. Cameron did mega research on trucks and we checked out a few now that we were finally in town. Purchasing and registering the truck, inspection and “roadworthy” test paperwork was all surprisingly easy and quick. All done in a day! And we drove away with our very own Nissan Patrol diesel.

The scary part for me was not only driving on the right hand side of the car, but driving a stick with my left hand! And I’m not a great stick driver. But again I’m surprised at how quickly I’ve adapted to driving, and I’m getting better every day at not drifting to the left and onto the shoulder. A common comment from the passenger is something like, “oh shit scoot over! You’re going to drive us off the road!” On our drive down to Airlie Beach I even managed to pass a couple of cars on the one way highways! I’m making it!!

We may have overbooked ourselves on the day we left Cairns. An 8 hour drive down to Airlie Beach proceeded a hectic morning of packing up the truck and going to the Home Depot equivalent for tools to properly wire the fridge into the back of the truck.

We got into the marina late, couldn’t find the “A” pier for the life of us, finally slogged most of our gear to our boat, ran off to find something to eat, put the B to bed and had a mini meltdown. Something along the lines of “holy shit what the fuck are we doing?? WHY did we think chartering a catamaran powerboat in a foreign country was a good idea? Are we going to be able to do this?? I am not ready for this!!!!” High stress and the worries the night brings combined to bring out my worst fears and trepidations.

Everything is better when the sun shines again. A fitful short night of sleep allowed me to wake up with a good attitude, more energy and a Simone Biles attitude, “you got this.” Walk up to that office, check in and get your snorkel gear, drink your coffee, walk that 1/2 mile to the toilets, stare at yourself in the mirror and tell yourself, “It may have been 2 years since you navigated, since you stared at a nautical chart, since you tied a line, but you can do it!”

And we did. Jordan, our firey red haired and freckled skipper, gave us the run down on all the in’s and out’s of the boat. How to get the dinghy in and out of the davits, how to turn on the stove, emergency procedures, breakers, water, etc. Went out on a test drive to practice anchoring and tying to a mooring buoy (my job), where to store lines and fenders (Also my job), how to run the engines, GPS tracker and what radio chanels to use where.

And then we just left, and just drove off, bye Jordan, bye mainland…let me just look at my plot I charted and take turns driving this monstrosity. I love boating, anyone who knows me is aware Cameron and I have spent every summer boating that we’ve been together. Upgraded to a cabin cruiser when Bells was 2 years old so we could go on longer adventures. Doing this in the tropical great barrier reef is surreal.

I think I was in shock when I finally dropped anchor and attatched the bridal, checking 2 points to make sure we weren’t dragging anchor. I sat there, alone for a minute, on the flybridge staring at the bay, the other boats, my boss anchoring job, and just balked. Bloody hell mate, is this REAL?? Did I just do this? The water is so blue. WOW. Then the rain came and I shit you not, DOUBLE RAINBOW. It’s blowing 20-30 knots and I’m just sitting there in the partial sun as it starts to rain on me thinking, “…is this really my life? I have no home. I’m living on a boat for the next 2 weeks, am I dreaming??” *insert crazy cackling here*